Jordan - Day 6 (Jan 3, 2009)

Alas, our six day trip to Jordan comes to an end.

It was truly a remarkable trip. Driving around the country was a breeze and the scenery, ancient ruins, and castles were all just simply amazing.

Couple of cats feasting on someone's breakfast. It was a breakfast buffet and the woman put a plate full of food on the table and immediately went to get some drinks. Not much was left when she got back.

On a flight back to Kuwait, there was a small town, most likely an oil drilling related complex, in the middle of nowhere.

Jordan - Day 5 (Jan 2, 2009)

The main destination for this day was the three different desert castles (or Qasr) out on the east. But before we set out for the desert, we went to the baptism site of Jesus. I'm not too familiar with Judeo-Christian history and I didn't even know Jesus was baptized. I guess you learn something new everyday.

This is the map of the site engraved on a stone in front of the ticket booth.

Because the baptism site was located in a military area bordering Israel (or Palestine), tourists weren't allowed to wander around on their own. All tourists must be accompanied by the official tour guides and had to get on the back of a truck like the one above to get around the area.

The Jordan River.

This is supposedly where Jesus was baptized. Hmmm...

A church right by the Jordan River and the baptism site. It looked more like a place for tourists than anything else.

Inside of the church had some nice paintings, but looked too "new".

Dude selling bottled Jordan River water and holy oil for JD1 a pop.

Across the river, you can see the Israeli flag.

A Russian couple getting into the Jordan River for the full baptism experience.

And now we head east to the middle of nowhere to check out the desert castles.

The first castle we arrived at was Qasr al-Harrana.

Historical Background: Although the building is well preserved with its original architectural elements, its date and original function are still issues of debate among scholars. An Arabic inscription in black ink and several lines long, was found on the plaster above one of the doorways in the main hall of the upper floor. It was written during Muharran 92 AH (November 710 AD), during the reign of the Umayyad caliph al-Walid ibn Abdal-Malik.

Function: Debate is still going on as to the original function of the building. The most widely accepted opinion among scholars is that it was a khan, or inn. If this were true then Qasr al-Harrana would be the earliest known khan of the Islamic period.

The second castle we arrived at was Qasr Amra.

"Qasr Amra (Arabic: قصر عمرة‎), often Quseir Amra or Qusayr Amra, is the best-known of the desert castles located in present-day eastern Jordan. It was built early in the 8th century (probably between 711 and 715) by the Umayyad caliph Walid I whose dominance of the region was rising at the time. It is considered one of the most important examples of early Islamic art and architecture.

The building is actually the remnant of a larger complex that included an actual castle, of which only the foundation remains. What stands today is a small country cabin, meant as a royal retreat, without any military function. It is most notable for the frescoes that remain on the ceilings inside, which depict hunting, naked women and, above one bath chamber, an accurate representation of the zodiac. These have led to its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of four in the country. That status, and its location along Jordan's major east-west highway, relatively close to Amman, have made it a frequent tourist destination." - Wikipedia -

Looks like the place where Luke Skywalker's uncle and aunt lived.

A well that goes down a long way. It was pretty scary looking into the well.

The beautiful frescoes.

The third castle ,Qasr Azraq, was actually a bit difficult to find at first because it was inside a small city, unlike the first two that were literally in the middle of nowhere with nothing else around them.

"In the 16th century the Ottoman Turks stationed a garrison there, and T. E. Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia) made the fortress his desert headquarters during the winter of 1917, during the Great Arab Revolt against the Ottoman Empire." - Wikipedia -

On our way back west to the Dead Sea.

On our way back, we stopped by Amman, the capital.

Some more Roman ruins in the city.

A huge amphitheater.

We ended the day with some fish and chips, Jordan style.

Jordan - Day 4 (Jan 1, 2009)

Off we go north towards Jerash.

Well paved road from the Dead Sead resort area to the capital city of Amman.

But not before we stopped at a local garage to take care of a flat tire. The guy found a huge nail stuck in the middle of the tire. JD3 for the fix. The guy didn't speak any English, but the omnipotent body language did the trick. All I did was kick the tire. And he showed me three fingers.

For the Korean readers in their 30s and above, this is a picture of Daewoo Royale Salon in the streets of Amman.

After about an hour and a half drive from the Dead Sea, we arrived at the ancient city of Jerash.

"Jerash is known for the ruins of the Greco-Roman city of Gerasa, also referred to as Antioch on the Golden River. It is sometimes misleadingly referred to as the "Pompeii of the Middle East or Asia", referring to its size, extent of excavation and level of preservation (though Jerash was never buried by a volcano). Jerash is considered one of the most important and best preserved Roman cities in the Near East. It was a city of the Decapolis." - Wikipedia -

Hadrian's Arch
Built to commemorate the visit of the Emperor Hadrian to Gerasa in 129 AD, this splendid triumphal arch was intended to become the main southern gate to the city; however, the expansion plans were never completed

South Gate

The South Gate, through which you enter Jerash, dates from 130 AD and has a characteristic carved acanthus-leaf decoration. The open area inside the gate was used as a market place, and a 2nd century olive press is visible behind a wooden screen.

Oval Plaza

The spacious plaza measures 90x80m and is surrounded by a broad sidewalk and a colonnade of 1st century Ionic columns. There are two altars in the middle, and a fountain was added in the 7th century AD. This square structure now supports a central column, which was recently erected to carry the Jerash Festival flame.

Colonnaded Street

Still paved with the original stones - the ruts worn by chariot wheels still visible - the 800m Cardo was the architectural spine and focal point of Gerasa. The colonnaded street was remodeled in the late 2nd century AD, probably after 170 AD. The Ionic columns were replaced by more elaborate Corinthian columns. On either side was a broad sidewalk with shops, which can still be clearly seen. An underground sewage system ran the full length of the Cardo, and the regular holes at the sides of the street drained rainwater into the sewers.

The ruts worn by chariot wheels still visible

Cathedral

Further up the Cardo on the left is the monumental and richly carved gateway of a 2nd century Roman temple of Dionysus. In the 4th century the temple was rebuilt as a Byzantine church, now called the Cathedral (although there is no evidence it was more important than any other church). At the top of the stairs, against an outer east wall of the Cathedral, is the shrine of St. Mary, with a painted inscription to Mary and the archangels Michael and Gabriel.

Nymphaeum

This ornamental fountain was constructed in 191 AD, and dedicated to the Nymphs. Such fountains were common in Roman cities, and provided a refreshing focal point for the city. This fine example was originally embellished with marble facings on the lower leveland painted plaster on the upper level, topped with a half-dome roof. Water cascaded through seven carved lion's heads into small basins on the sidewalk (the large red granite basin is a Byzantine addition) and overflowed from there through drains into the underground sewer system.

Temple of Artemis

Artemis, daughter of Zeus and sister of Apollo, was the patron goddess of Gerasa. Although small, the temple's Corinthian columns soar impressively from the hilltop site: 11 of the 12 front columns are still standing. The temple's inner chamber was originally clad with marble slabs and housed a shrine which probably contained a statue of the goddess.

North Theater

At the north, the Church of St. Cosmos and St. Damian - twin brother doctors who were martyred in the 4th century - has the most splendid floor mosaics to be seen in Jerash. An inscription dates the mosaic to 553 AD, and the images include the church warden Theodore with his wife Georgia, praying with widespread arms.

South Theater
Built during the reign of Emperor Domintian, between 90-92 AD, the South Theater seats more than 3,000 spectators. The first level of the ornate stage, originally two-stories has been recontructed and is still used today.The remarkable acoustics allow a speaker at the center of the orchestra floor to be heard by the entire auditorium with raising his voice. Two vaulted passages lead into the orchestra, and four passages at the back of the theater give access to the upper rows of seats. Some seats could be reserved and the Greek letters which designate them can still be seen.

An excellent view of the Jerash Ruins from the top row of the South Theater.

A gift shop at the end of the tour. You can only get back to the parking lot though these gift shops. Just like most other touristy places.

After checking out the ancient Jerash, we came back to our hotel at the Dead Sea. On our way, though, we decided to stop by Mount Nebo, which was very close to the hotel.

"According to the final chapter of Deuteronomy, Mount Nebo is where the Hebrew prophet Moses was given a view of the promised land that God was giving to the Jews. "And Moses went up from the plains of Moab to Mount Nebo, the top of Pisgah, which is opposite Jericho." (Deuteronomy 34:1).

According to Jewish and Christian tradition, Moses was buried on this mountain by God Himself, and his final resting place is unknown. Scholars continue to dispute whether the mountain currently known as Nebo is the same as the mountain referred to in the Torah.

According to the 2 Maccabees 2:4-7, the Prophet Jeremiah hid the tabernacle and the Ark of the Covenant here." - Wikipedia -

On our way to Mount Nebo. The landscape was quite hilly, and the road was serpantine, which scared the hell out of my wife. But I had fun driving.

A herd of lambs. Very scenic.

"The Abu Badd - Rolling stone used as a fortified door of a Byzantine monastery in the old village of Faisaliyah once known as Kufeir Abu Badd."

Mosaic floor.

Inside of a church on top of Mount Nebo.

A view towards Israel from the top of Mount Nebo.

Olive tree planted by the Pope John Paul II.

A Bedouine camp with a lot of goats on the hills of Mount Nebo.

The sun sets over the Dead Sea.